Day 6 Many More Pilgrims

Sarria to Portomarin - distance traveled 14.5 miles. We had a partially drizzly day but totally enjoyable hike today. Tempature around 50 degrees and overcast the majority of the day. The guide book said we would meet many more pilgrims starting in Sarria and it was right. Many people start their hike from Sarria. It is the minimum distance a pilgrim can walk and still complete the Way of St James and receive a certificates of completion in Santiago. However, most of the people we met today have been walking about the same distance that we have.

We explored a bit of Sarria on the way out of town. Pilgrim murals, churches, ruins, and ancient bridges.

Stacy- this part is for you. We ran across many shrines today.

We started to see a bunch of these thin buildings next to almost every house. Some over a entry gate to their house, some in fields, some built into fences.... We started to wonder what they were. It didn't take long to figure out that they are Galacian family crypts. Some fancier than others! Nothing like keeping granny close. Lauren and Morgan take note!

Santiago Moncada- you are correct. I started noticing that when churches have two bells one is always bigger. Why?

It was really a beautiful hike today. We went through pine forests and what Mark calls the creepy forest. Not sure what these trees are, but they seem to get cut back and thick bases form. They look like something out of a Harry Potter forest.

Then we got the treat of hiking through mud, muck and what we dubbed cow patty paths. Lots of dairy farms and the farmers take the cows from grazing fields to the milking barns right down the hiking trail. I have never seen Mark get in the shower so fast upon getting to the hotel.

We passed the marker telling us that we have 100 km to hike before reaching Santiago.

We met two sisters from upstate NewYork hiking together. One is 17 and the other 21. The young one is still in high school and doing homework daily. Also, met German Sarah and her mom at lunch. Sarah spoke great English and mom not much. Sarah was saying that they were told no room was available at an albergue in O'Cebreiro and to go across the street to check. A Spainard had just checked in ahead of them for 5 euro and when they went to check in the person said that a room would be 35 euro because they were German and could afford it. They decided to take a taxi to the next town. Probably cost them the same as the room but I think it was a principle thing at that point.

We finally found a place open around lunch for a break and to get our pilgrim's passport stamped. To get a completion certificate for the Camino de Santiago/Way of St. James you must walk the required kilometers and get your passport stamped daily.

We got our first glance at Portomarin a couple of miles out. It is a beautiful lakeside community.

Now out to find a market for supplies for tonight and tomorrow. Maybe find a place for a beer or vino rojo and then dinner. They dine pretty late around here dinner is served from 8 pm to midnight most places.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Day 5 - Halfway there!!!!

Tricastela to Sarria: Oh what a difference a day makes. To quote John Denver "Sunshine on my shoulders makes me happy!" It was a simply glorious day. I think I even have a bit of a sunburn. No rain gear and no jacket needed today.

The 12 mile trip was a true hike in every sense of the word. We were on trails vs the road the majority of the day. We had some steep climbs that Mark calls butt busters, rocks, mud and streams to cross and pure beauty. The arrows marking the way were often painted on the rocks. Rolling hills and farmland. We passed a few dairy farms and I can't imagine going through this area in the heat of the summer....PU.

The stacked stone houses and building are everywhere and fascinate me. Sometimes the walls will bow out but for the most part they remain standing and for what looks like hundreds of years.

I took this picture of Sarria in the distance. It is barely visible in the distance (tiny bit of white under the clouds) to give some idea of the distance.

For the Camino Forum participants following my blog, I decided to mention that nothing is open during the winter so it is really important to pack snacks with you if you walk any time before late March or April. Our plans for frequent stops to rest sure have not panned out.

We came across this tiny tiny one bell church today. To looks active and they even have a confessional.

Our dog of the day was a huge St,Bernard laying across the entire path. He raised his head to look at us but went right back to enjoying the sun, too! We did have one dog that was kind of aggressive that got my heart pumping but Mark encouraged me to move off his domain and he would leave us alone and he did. We continue to see stork nests. This momma was feeding her babies.

We are staying in a more upscale hotel tonight. We suggested the hotel to Taryn when she mentioned last night that she wanted to treat herself for her birthday. Of course her 26 year old legs got her there about two hours before we arrived. We saw her when we were checking In and she said it felt great to wash her hair for the first time in a month. She is staying in albergues and they provide you nothing but a bed and a shower. You want a towel you must carry it. We walked around a bit and found some gelato for a sweet treat and will be heading back to the hotel soon to soak in the bathtub! We did find the Camino that heads away for the hotel. Yep, up a bunch of steps. Great.

 

 

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Day 4 - Reached Galicia

O'Cebreiro to Tricastela: Today, we hiked 15 miles. 15 of the most boring and pretty miserable miles possible. I decided when I blog, I am not going to sugar coat the day. So this was our day: All of the pilgrims in O'Cebreiro met up for breakfast. Mark had the most amazing hot chocolate. Not sure how they make it but it literally was like thin melted chocolate. The group had been told to avoid the Camino path because it was covered in snow and really deep. So we all headed out on the hard and boring road. Boring because it was just a road, hard on the feet and, because of the weather. We couldn't see a thing.

We soon found out that the area was quite desolate. We didn't pass any buildings for at least 5 miles, at least that we could see. Which is a long time when you are walking. At times you could imagine being any place in the world even the In the US because it was just farm land and road.

We did pass Hospital, Spain. The town is named after an old peregrino/pilgrim stopping place for travelers too sick to carry on. They could stay at the hospital and be visited by the local priest.

We also had to stop at statue tribute to all the pilgrims making it to the summit and highest point on our walk. Also, take a look at the view at the top due to being in the clouds. Crazy.

We decided to try and get off the paved road and get back on the Camino but when we walked through slush and then stepped knee deep into snow - we decided to hit the paved road again. We finally got past the snow but not the fog. The drizzle and mist made it so we couldn't even see 100 yards in front of us. There were supposed to be so many great views but if there was anything to look at we missed it. Just look at that fog. Yuck.

The constant moisture caused everything we had on to become wet and cold....then we had to deal with the steep drop down into the valley of Tricastela. Oh my aching knees. We did get treated to some awesome paella and beer for lunch when we FINALLY arrived. Typography map is below and just a picture of one of the many wall/fences we passed that are so constantly moist that plants thrive in them.

My four observations for the day. German shepards are the breed of choice and they are every where. Almost always wondering around and we are greeted by one in every town. Our German follow Camino hiker (his name is Pharr) was bit by one earlier in his trip but all we have come in contact with have been sweet or ignored us.

The style of churches seems to have changed in Galicia. They mostly have round tops and look very similar.

Winter gardens are common Through this area and almost every home has one. I went to the grocery store to pick up a few snacks and now know why. The produce selection is almost non-existent.

The wine is good and very cheap. We stopped for a glass of wine and paid 3 euro (about $4) for the two of us and then went to buy a bottle at the store. Check out the prices.

We are hoping for better weather tomorrow but forecast is not looking to good so far. At least the trail should be free of snow and there should be more to see.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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